November 2019: Bay Area Ridge Trail: Redwood Valley Railway to Sibley Park

Hi, this is Chris Logsdon, Randi's husband. Sadly for us all, Randi passed away in October of 2019.
I thought I might try to continue her travel journey.

Randi and her brother began their journey on this ridge trail and had made it as far as the Redwood Valley Railway in Tilden Park.  On our last hike there in February 2018, we ended our hike with a very fun relaxing ride on a fully steam but miniature steam train.  It was a good capper on the end of a nice hike through the Tilden Regional Park in Wildcat Canyon.

Just yesterday, her brother Irving and I went back to the Railway parking lot to continue our hike along the ridge trail.  First I decided to take snapshots of our route from Google maps on my phone.  There are PDFs online but they are only good for an overview in my opinion.  We also decided we would be close enough to town to Lyft our way back to my car which we parked before hiking down.

 

 

From the maps and bay area ridge trail site, we could see we had to traverse EBMUD land, so Irving bought a year permit that was good for a year. ($10)    So we began a reasonably steep descent into the canyon.  There are some spectacular views from the trail:

We assumed this peak is Mt Diablo:

 

At about the 2 mile mark we crossed the Caldecott tunnel for Highway 24.  So I thought I would include this sign explaining the importance of the wildlife corridor that allows animals to move from one side to the other of this very busy road:

 

After the Old Tunnel staging area, the trail started to climb, so it was good that the beginning our hike was mostly downhill.  This is good hike but not impossible for even once in a while hikers like myself.

Getting  a Lyft proved to be a minor challenge.  I had to walk down the main road (Grizzly Peak Blvd) a ways to get a good signal.

On the way back home, we stopped for a well earned burger and fries (understatement) at one of our faves, Red Onion Burger in Pinole.  Big and tasty!  We both loved the Garlic Spinach Onion cheese burger (although I got bleu cheese on mine 👅)  and their garlic fries are the bomb with many good size dice of sweet garlic.  What a treat!   And boy was I tired.

Highly recommend this hike if you have 3-4 hours to leisurely enjoy it.  Although we did encounter runners and bikers and evidence of horse back riders, so in that case you only need about an hour. 😄

Bay Area Ridge Trail - Benicia to Crockett

Looking towards Crockett from Benicia State Recreation Area

On October 17, 2015, I went with my brother on my second segment of the Bay Area Ridge Trail connect-the-dots adventure. This segment was where trying to connect missing sections of the trail became a true art and science of navigation from a printed map that was not that great, a cell phone map, some mixture of logic and instinct, making wrong turns and other mistakes, and just plain luck.

Dad drove us to the Benicia State Recreation Area, where we left off on Dillon Point Road, along the western side of the marsh. We continued to walk south by the lovely wetlands towards Dillon Point and took Substation Road to the left to meet up with the Bay Area Ridge Trail. We followed it to Dillon Point, where the trail winds up and down in the hills towards west Vallejo above Southhampton Bay and Carquinez Strait. This is a good place to pay attention to the ridge trail marker signs and maps, since the trail here connects to a network of other trails, including the San Francisco Bay Trail.

Carquinez Strait and Southampton Bay from Dillon Point

Glen Cove Waterfront Park, Vallejo

Then we hiked northwest to Glen Cove and followed the greener and more flat trail along the shoreline of trees, grasses, and emergent vegetation. This official segment of the ridge trail ends with a loop in Glen Clove Waterfront Park and a sign that the trail beyond this point has yet to be developed. We took a break in the park, then here is where the fun began. The details of our successes and follies that follow may be helpful if any other nut wants to try to connect these trail segments on foot.

Glen Cove Marina

We started navigating the streets of Vallejo's Glen Cove neighborhood to try to pick up the next segment of the ridge trail. We walked up Whitesides Drive, took a left on South Regatta and another left on Glen Cove Parkway. This busy street goes straight uphill, and the next missed turn was my bad because I wasn't paying enough attention to the map. It was quite a wasted expenditure of time and physical exertion. We turned back to take Quiet Harbor Drive to the Glen Cove Marina at Elliot Cove, where we picked up a segment of the San Francisco Bay Trail.

Carquinez Strait from Bay Area Ridge Trail, Vallejo

We hiked west above Carquinez Strait, with beautiful views of the channel and its waterfronts. That brought us back to a small segment of the ridge trail that ascends in elevation and ends at a point overlooking Interstate 80 and the new Alfred Zampa Memorial Bridge, built alongside the 1958 Carquinez Bridge. Nice view, but here's the catch. The next official segment of the ridge trail starts in the town of Crockett on the west side of the bridge. Somehow, we needed to get off the steep hill and down to the bridge so we could walk across it. A little bit of logic and ingenuity was now in order.

Since we couldn't fly down, we took an unmarked footpath we found to our right. The footpath connected to another trail that went northeast through an open-space greenbelt between the neighborhoods. From Seahorse Drive, we found Old Glen Cove Road to the right, which goes through another greenbelt between neighborhoods and ends on Pueblo Way. We stopped for a curbside picnic lunch, where a small section of Pueblo turns into a trail. Then our first right on Palou Street took us to Magazine Street, which to the left was our ticket across Interstate 80. From where we started standing high above the bridge, we wound up going over two miles out of the way in the opposite direction to get across the freeway, and we were tired. I saw a Starbucks off Magazine on Pine Street. Time for a coffee break.

Bridge view of Maritime Academy training ship, the Golden Bear

Since we had to navigate ourselves back at least another mile to the south to get to the bridge, we continued down Pine to Orange and 5th streets to get to Maritime Academy Drive, enjoying some very fun and rather large Halloween decorations along the way. We passed by the athletic facility at the California State University Maritime Academy, the only maritime academy on the west coast for students who want to study and work on ships or boats for sea-faring and other related careers. I would guess many people, as my brother once did, dream about enrolling into this academy's marine programs. At this point, we found the Carquinez Bridge Trail, which took us along the freeway and across the bridge. We enjoyed beautiful views of Carquinez Strait, Napa River, and San Pablo Bay that we would not see from a vehicle speeding across the bridge.

View of Napa River from the Crockett side of the strait and bridge

The bridge was a grand finale to a very long day, and we were more than ready to be picked up in Crockett. We followed the bridge trail alongside Pomona Street to where it ended near Crockett's classic little downtown. Dad met us at Toot's Tavern, where we enjoyed pizza, beer, and a Florida Gators football game (dad was a Florida Gator linebacker in his college years). It was a good spot to pick up again from Crockett on the next leg of our ridge trail journey.

Jackson Meadows Reservoir - Tahoe National Forest

The Tahoe National Forest is northwest of Lake Tahoe in the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California and spans across Sierra, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Plumas, and El Dorado counties. People come in crowds and hoards to Lake Tahoe itself, a quite famous destination for locals and visitors alike. Some go for the excitement of the towns and casinos while enjoying views or visits to the lake; others may go for the more natural scenery experience away from the tourists and tumult to see the lake from the serenity of its surrounding forests. Either way, lodging is hard to come by and very expensive, and campers have few options unless they start heading north. What campers may not know about are a dozen or more campgrounds north of Interstate 80 in the Tahoe National Forest, within an hour and a half of Lake Tahoe. Also less known is that this national forest is a destination in itself, with dozens of lakes and reservoirs, outdoor recreation opportunities, and pristine mountain environments.

One of the larger lakes in the area is the Jackson Meadows Reservoir. There are eight campgrounds to choose from, picnic areas, boat launches, fun water activities, and nature viewing. The reservoir is surrounded by forests, rocky slopes, and beautiful montane meadows. So naturally, when the Sacramento-Shasta Chapter of The Wildlife Society planned a camping trip for its members on October 9, 2015, the organizer chose Jackson Meadows. Coming from Interstate 80, Jackson Meadows can be accessed from State Highway 89 north from the Town of Truckee (also a cool destination for those who have time to stop and check out the historic part of town). The turn-off is marked, and National Forest Road 07 is the route to the reservoir; but it is a little tricky to get on and stay on the right road. Our group camp was at Woodcamp Campground on the western side of the reservoir. I arrived just as it was starting to get dark and very easily passed the turn. I eventually found my way and settled into the campsite with my friends and fellow wildlife professionals for dinner, a fire, a party, a very cold night, and a bear noisily trying to break into our bear vault.

The next morning, three of us hiked down to the reservoir--two birders and a botanist. We started at a sandy beach with scattered rocks, wood debris, and tree trunks. Then it dawned on me that the beach we were walking on was the lakebed itself. Still in the drought of 2015, the water level of the reservoir was extremely low.
Parts of the lakebed had hues of green algae on dark soil, and part of the reservoir looked more like a river than a lake.

Montane meadow (in the distance) by the reservoir

We passed a boat ramp that would launch the boat into dry sand. But rather than trip about the drought, we had a meadow to hike and birds and plants to see. As we walked beyond the reservoir into a rather wet and swampy meadow, I suddenly remembered I had been there before. When surveying for great gray owls back in 2005, this was one of the survey sites. Great gray owls nest and roost in the trees and forage in mountain meadows. Most of that work was done at night, and I recall--being the klutz that I am--tripping and falling into one of these swampy meadows.

White pelican

One-seeded pussy paws (Calyptridium monospermum)
is found throughout the Tahoe National Forest

We took our time and hiked about three miles, halfway around the reservoir. There were geese, a white pelican, woodpeckers, nuthatches, and many interesting plants and flowers. It was a long and rewarding walk; but at the end, I was pretty winded and happy to return to camp and chill. In the evening, we had a big group potluck and sat around the fire playing Cards Against Humanity--nothing more fun than wrong humor after a very right kind of day. We spent another night in our cold tents, had a grand potluck breakfast in the morning, and eventually needed to strike camp and leave the beautiful forest to return to the city. It was not only a needed getaway for me. After traveling much of the United States and several other countries, I still say California's Sierra Nevada ranks as one of the most beautiful places on earth. I am fortunate that for most of my life, I either lived near or in these mountains and spent countless precious days there.  

Natomas Basin - Wildlife Friendly Lands

Northern Natomas Basin

It was one thing for me to sit in an office behind a computer and work on conservation of a threatened species and its habitat. To actually go out into the field and see the habitat is another thing and was a privilege of my job. However, when anyone drives through an area with some open space and farmlands in northern California, they may be driving through very important habitat for the rarest of species without realizing it. This is because as natural wetlands in California declined to nearly ten per cent of the area they once covered, working landowners--mostly farmers and conservancies--started managing their lands and operations to create the habitat function the lost wetlands once provided.

One such area is the Natomas Basin, in the City of Sacramento and to the north. South Natomas is about 10 minutes from downtown, where affordable housing communities provide attractive options for commuters and newcomers to buy homes. Although North Natomas is also somewhat developed, a more rural landscape farther north stretches into southern Sutter County. Here, farmers do business in the best way possible to be profitable and successful while providing a benefit to the wildlife that use their fields as habitat during certain times of the year, a term coined as "wildlife friendly agriculture". North Natomas also has reserve lands managed by The Natomas Basin Conservancy. This land is set aside for the recovery and conservation of wildlife, including species that are threatened and endangered in the U.S. and California, such as the giant garter snake and Swainson's hawk.

I was working to help conserve the giant garter snake, a species endemic only to certain parts of the state, with disjunct populations that are threatened by genetic isolation and local extirpations. The Natomas Basin population is important for the survival of the species. So when a representative of the Natomas Basin Conservancy invited my supervisor and me to tour giant garter snake habitat on their reserve, we felt very fortunate.

A canal used by the giant garter snake with upland habitat on the rocks and levee.

It was a beautiful sunny day with a very clear blue sky on October 9, 2015. We toured tracts of the reserve at the northern edge of Sacramento County off of Elverta Road, which is accessed from Highway 70/99, that included rice fields, freshwater marshes, tree-lined canals, large ponds, and open grassland. Though we did not see the snakes, we saw the edges of ponds, canals, and flooded rice fields that we know they are using to meet most of their needs, such as breeding, dispersing, and foraging. The giant garter snakes also use grassy, rocky, or vegetated banks of these watery habitats, sometimes up to several hundred feet away, as "upland" habitat. This is where they use burrows or crevices to hibernate underground in the winter; or when above ground, to hide from predators or extreme weather.

The snakes colonized the emergent vegetation at the edge of this pond and its bank.

Sometimes the ponds get overrun with water primrose, which needs to be removed. 

Swainson's hawks also nest in the trees in the reserve, and tricolored blackbirds may use the tules in the ponds or marshes.

We then traveled up Natomas Road in southern Sutter County through the rice fields, where the farmers manage their crops for the benefit of the giant garter snake and birds. Turning left on Sankey Road, we drove by some some trees and grasslands that are used by Swainson's hawks for nesting and foraging.

Although the public does not have access to the reserve itself, there are good viewing spots from the roads that surround them and a preserve map that shows where to go. The Natomas Basin is scenic and peaceful and worth a drive-through for local people who want to take a daytime excursion. Fishing is allowed in some of the canals, and the more developed areas have good eateries. So while my trip was focused on viewing habitat for wildlife, there is always a little something for everyone to do or see.

Bay Area Ridge Trail - Vallejo to Benicia

Looking south towards Carquinez Strait

For hikers, walkers, cyclists, or horseback riders visiting or living in California's San Francisco Bay Area, the Bay Area Ridge Trail offers spectacular treks along city streets, over bridges, in flats and wetlands, in hills and mountains, in many local and regional parks, and through miles of open space. Much of this network of trails offers views from higher ridges of the bays, rivers, and waterways, while some are closer to the lowlands. It covers the many different types of scenery and ecosystems the Bay Area has to offer. Some of the trails are mellow, some are moderate or moderately difficult, and some are strenuous and adventurous. The idea of the Bay Area Ridge Trail is to connect over 350 miles of trails around the perimeter of the greater Bay Area. All of the segments are not connected. They either have not yet been developed or past segments were taken over by land use changes and private property. However, with the help of some maps and a bit of creative navigation skills, disjunct sections can be pieced together.

Start of the trail overlooking Vallejo

Going back to our idea of traversing a monumentally large hiking journey in small segments over time, my brother started hiking the established Bay Area Ridge Trail as well as improvising his way through the missing segments in between. It soon became his passion and obsession. I was invited to join him on this mission, and started my first segment with him on September 26, 2015. This segment began in the City of Vallejo, which is in the East Bay region of the trail network. The entrance is off of Ascot Parkway near Georgia Street, and the trail goes into open space grasslands known as the Vallejo-Benicia Buffer between Lake Herman Road and Columbus Parkway. The trail is moderately hilly and was an effort for my level of fitness. The effort, however, was worth the views of Suisun Bay to the east, San Pablo Bay to the west, and the Carquinez Strait that connects to the two bays. The birding opportunity was also a huge win as I watched raptors soar over the grasslands in search of prey. I also caught sight of a few of the many beautiful moth and butterfly species that live in or are endemic to the Bay Area.

This trail segment connects Vallejo to the City of Benicia. Staying on the trail is pretty straight forward, with a couple of other trails branching off. At the first juncture, the Bay Area Ridge Trail turns to the right to continue southwest towards the west side of Benicia. This trail ends on Rose Drive, which when taken to the right, goes to the Benicia State Recreation Area.

Tidal wetland in the Benicia State Recreation Area

The next segment of the Bay Area Ridge Trail picks up again at Dillon Point, immediately south of the Benicia State Recreation Area. To connect the two trails, we started walking Dillon Point Road, which borders the tidal wetland this State park preserves. This wetland provides habitat for rare and endangered plants and wildlife, such as the endangered salt-marsh harvest mouse.

We stopped partway after the road turned to the south, since my brother had earlier sustained an injury. Sitting on a bench and taking in the view of the beautiful marsh, we made note of the spot to pick up from for the next segment of our journey. The parents picked us up at that spot and took us to Mountain Mike's Pizza for a bite to eat before driving us back to where we started in Vallejo.

New Melones Lake in the Drought of 2015

My travel on September 23, 2015, seemed to also be focused on visiting drought-stricken reservoirs, although not so intentionally. On the holy day of atonement for Jewish people called Yom Kippur, my family has carried on a tradition of spending the day out in the solitude of nature rather than with other people, food, and stressful distractions, because it is a day of fasting and quiet reflection. It also, for me, leads to a more spiritual connection with God through nature. However, choosing a location that is less than a day's drive, beautiful, not crowded, not strenuous to get to, and that has a nice place to sit in the shade most of the day with some hiking opportunities can be a challenge. I also seem to gravitate towards a place with water when I take the initiative on deciding where to go.

That year, I chose New Melones Lake because I had seen it from the air during a flight over the delta and other parts of central California. My colleagues on that flight wanted to see New Melones from the air to get a good picture of how low the water in the reservoir actually was. The scenery was pretty spectacular because of the way New Melones spreads and fingers out amongst and between the rolling green and brown hills. I though if it was this pretty from the air, it would be a cool place to go to on land. New Melones Lake is on the Stanislaus River in the central "gold country" foothills of the Sierra Nevada range in the counties of Calaveras and Tuolumne. It is about a three-hour drive south of the Sacramento area, off of State Highway 49, between the towns of Angels Camp and Sonora. It is not only scenic, but a lake enjoyed by many for recreation and water sports such as boating, fishing, water skiing, and camping. It is also very large, with 100 miles of shoreline and an area of about 12,500 acres. We found our ideal spot in the Tuttletown Recreation Area, with shady oaks, picnic tables, and trails that wound down towards the lake.

Oak woodland at the Tuttletown Recreation Area

After many hours of peaceful and lazy reflection on the past year with thoughts of how I may do better in the year to come, we decided to drive around and explore a bit. We drove out to the southern tip of the Glory Hole Recreation Area. What was utterly shocking was how far out we walked into what is usually deeply underwater. While theming on how this historic drought was affecting the state of California, I'd be remiss to mention how walking into the middle of a giant reservoir is likely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The scenery was also uniquely fascinating--steep, striated slopes of the basin, now shades of green and brown soils, jetting high above the water line and telling the story of where different water levels over time reached the shorelines. Similar to how it felt at Folsom Lake a week before, it was an eery kind of fascination.

Towards late afternoon and getting very hungry, it was time to wind our way back out to Highway 49 and head north to break our fast in the town of Angels Camp. I think we chose the Angels Creek Cafe to fill our empty tummies, then headed back towards the greater Sacramento area. The skies were filled with a spectacular red sunset. The beauty of the sunset was unfortunately enhanced by the smoke from the wildfires that were raging in north central California, likely accelerated by the drought. It was another delicate balance between feeling the somberness of a state of disaster while at the same time enjoying the scenically unique sights that otherwise would not be experienced. It is one of those emotionally ambivalent dilemmas often encountered in life.

Adventures on the Pioneer Express Trail

On January 14, 2007, a random ride through the foothills of California's Sierra Nevada range led my brother, husband, and me to a segment of the Pioneer Express Trail at the Folsom Lake State Recreation Area in Placer County.  The Pioneer Express Trail starts in the City of Auburn and follows  the American River south to Folsom Lake. It follows the western shore of Folsom Lake until it meets up with the Jedediah Smith Memorial Trail at Beal's Point just before Folsom Dam, pretty much covering the north to south span of the Folsom Lake SRA. We then hatched the idea of hiking long-mileage trails a segment at a time with a dream of hiking American River trails from the foothill town of Cool to Discovery Park in Sacramento.

A few months later, on March 24, 2007, we set our ambition way too high. We decided to not only take the 14-mile Pioneer Express trail from beginning to end, but to actually hike the 24 or so miles along the American River and Folsom Lake from Auburn to Negro Bar in the city of Folsom in one day. It was a lesson in being unrealistic, very bad planning, and making bad decisions--the kind of decisions where the phrase "what were we thinking" frequently comes to mind. Lesson 1 - know the terrain. We mistakenly thought the trail would be mostly flat; however, there were a lot of uphill-downhill runs (after all, it is in the foothills). We also mistakenly thought we had some level of supreme fitness, when indeed we were not physically equipped to take on such a trek. Our sense of timing was way off. We actually started late morning, not having a clue how many hours we would need to get to the parked car on the Folsom end of the hike. Lesson 2 - long hikes need good boots. I had on a pair of army boots that were not the right fit and they destroyed my feet. Lastly, and most comically, learn to read the legends on trail maps. We failed to pack an adequate supply of food because the "g" on the map for "gravel pit" was mistaken for "grocery". Envisioning some sort of mythical food vendor on a beach, I failed to realize that this section of trail is very remote and there are no services to be found, even on the roads that parallel the park. So three of us wound up subsisting all day on a strenuous hike on one Clif bar.

It wasn't all horrible, especially in the beginning. The scenery is astounding--starting with beautiful riparian ecosystems and river views, sand bars, small beaches, and eventually moving into rolling hills with oak woodland and grasslands that open up the view of the reservoir as the river widens. I only made it about 10 miles in before my feet were so blistery sore, I had to take off the army boots and hike in my socks. When my bleeding sores started to mix with mud, dirt, and horse manure, I called it quits. I suggested my husband and I hike out of the recreation area to the road and try to find a phone. My brother remained foolishly over ambitious and thought he would make it to the car in Folsom so he could come get us. By this time, it was already starting to get dark. Once we reached a rather ritzy neighborhood off Auburn-Folsom Road, we noticed helicopter police with a spotlight hovering about. I started to get nervous about a criminal on the loose. In reality, some resident saw and heard us talking and thought I was a little boy being kidnapped by my husband, so they called the police. The helicopter cop was after us. Eventually, a patrol car found us. I told the police my brother was caught in the dark on the trail, to please go rescue him. He had made it as far as the populated part of Granite Bay; so luckily, he was found. We were driven to our starting point in Auburn where we left the first car and eventually made it home so I could try to clean and nurse the wounded feet and get something to eat.

On September 20, 2015, my brother and I decided to revisit the trail and take that final stretch from Granite Bay to Negro Bar. This time, we were much more sensible about the distance, the level of difficulty, the need to actually pack a picnic lunch, and wearing the right clothes and shoes. It was a mid-morning to midday hike that included a bit of meandering off the trail and needlessly expending energy I didn't have lung power for on a steeply sloped detour. The scenery was strikingly different and alarmingly depressing. It was in the midst of the hottest, driest season of this area's frightening drought of 2015. Water levels in Folsom Lake were so low, people discovered the ruins of a historic gold rush town that had been inundated.

Folsom Lake during the drought of September 2015

Boat launches and life guard stands sat in lakes of sand, and shades of brown, tan, and mossy greens extended across the dry lakebed over large distances before actual water could be seen. White sands with concentric lines appeared on the slopes where the lake had previously reached the shore. It was fascinating from an aesthetic perspective but also eerily sobering, reminding us of how fragile we are in a changing environment. Folsom Lake supplies much of the greater Sacramento area water supply. The implications for people and nature alike were daunting. Even though we have since recovered from that drought, water conservation in the western USA is still extremely important. It was all I could think of while I was on that trail. This time, we met our destination. We picked up the Jedediah Smith Memorial Trail, walked along Folsom Dam, and eventually made it to Negro Bar. Although the day will likely never come for us to hike from Cool to Discovery Park, we still enjoy the memories of our adventures on the Pioneer Express Trail.

Negro Bar on the American River, Folsom, CA