Monday, May 27, 2013

Whales and Dolphins of Monterey

My 80-year old mother's life long dream was to see a dolphin in the wild. I had seen them before, off the coasts of Zanzibar, Eureka, and in the Philippine Islands, but when my husband was browsing TravelZoo and found a discount for Randy's Whale Watching in Monterey, how could I say no. We took a Monday off work, and invited my parents to double-date with us for a weekend of ocean thrills and decadent seafood dining.

On Sunday February 10, we settled into the Days Inn, Fisherman's Wharf, on Munras Avenue, across from Don Dahvee State Historic Park. Since Mom can't walk too far, we decided to go down to the wharf for some reconnaissance on where we would drop her off, park the car, and locate the dock we'd depart from. Whenever you walk down Old Fisherman's Wharf in Monterey at dinner time, you are haralded by seafood restaurant owners offering free samples of hot, homemade clam chowder and enticing you with free appetizers. We chose the Old Fisherman's Grotto for a feast of chowder, oysters on the half shell, fresh crab, and calamari. I enjoyed a peppermint patty (cocoa and Schnapps) at the Grotto and relaxed in our room with its nice gas fireplace.

We were out of the hotel and on the dock by 9 AM. While waiting for our boat to depart, we hung out with the large pile of sea lions that make Monterey Bay their home and haul out on the floating dock.
We were decked out in rain pants, coats, and slicks, expecting to get wet by sea and rain, but it was a beautifully warm and clear day. As our vessel pulled us out of the bay towards the open sea, I spotted grebes, loons, gulls, cormorants, murres, scoters, and a sooty shearwater. A large brown pelican flew right by us, sea otters frolicked nearby, harbor seals and sea lions dove and surfaced as they fished. Then we saw what we had come to see: the whales. We didn't get close to the gray whales, but we did see them breaching and spouting, and we were extremely fortunate to get a closer look at the Minke whale. The real highlight of my day was coming upon the large dolphin pod, which came amazingly close to our boat, and watching them jump out of the water in synchronized breaches. They knew why were were out there and were only too kind to pay us a visit and graciously lead us to the next whale.

Pirate ship on the Bay
Our exciting adventure with the marine life ended right around lunch time, conveniently timed for another seafood splurge before heading home. We enjoyed more oysters and calamari at Rappa's Harbor View. Then it was time for us weary sailors to leave the beautiful central California coast to travel inland and return to our daily lives. 
Sailor Tim and Joe Rappa






Friday, May 17, 2013

Sutter Buttes: The World's Smallest Spiritual Historic Range

In the Sacramento Valley of California, just northwestwest of Yuba City, a small isolated range of conically shaped mountains jets up from the valley floor. At one time it was thought to be an extension of the Cascades to the north, but no--it is connected to no other range.  Some say it doesn't qualify as a range; others tout it as the "smallest mountain range in the world." Regardless, the Sutter Buttes is a phenomenon of about 10 lava-formed peaks covered with rocks and crags, grassy rangeland, and oak woodland. Much of it is privately owned, with generations of families grazing sheep and cattle, keeping development at bay, and maintaining stewardship of its timeless natural beauty. The Middle Mountain Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the Sutter Buttes, owns part of the land and negotiates easements with the private owners. California State Parks also owns a piece of the northern Buttes, but access to the Buttes by the public is limited. Thousands of years ago, the ancient Maidu tribe revered the "Middle Mountain" as a mecca of spirituality. Much of that spirituality and the extremely rich cultural history still remains unscathed.




For a modest fee, the Middle Mountain Foundation leads guided hikes for the public to learn about and experience the Sutter Buttes, because special permission is required to access the range through its moat of private lands. The landowners also maintain relationships with researchers--biologists who study the incredible diversity of plant and animal life that have for centuries made the Sutter Buttes home. One such researcher from Sacramento City College, who for years has passionately studied bats, ringtails, and other wildlife with his students, led a guided hike for a group of Wildlife Society members, a group I was very fortunate to be a part of. The tallest peak in the Buttes is just over 2,000 feet, and we set out early one morning in February from the cattle pond to climb about 1,000 of those steep feet. What we saw and learned from our guide was absolutely amazing.

Our first stop was a look at the small bat houses erected high on thin poles used by a wide variety of bat species that occupy the range. I worried no more about not being able to keep up with the hikers as we stopped every 10 or so minutes to hear fascinating stories about the bat and ringtail research; to learn about the variety of oaks and other flora; to see hawks, falcons, eagles, and songbirds; to find and study the sign and scat of ringtail, skunk, and other carnivores; and to witness the evidence of a very clever spider who spun sacks to haul loads of dirt out of its little hole in the ground. We even got a glimpse of feral swine and introduced baron sheep, including the white Judas sheep that always stands out and gives away the location of the herd.

The history we saw was also incredibly fascinating. We saw and walked along historic rock walls that once partitioned the pastures, thought to be constructed by Chinese laborers for the early settlers; though there are some that believe the relic walls are an ancient mystery from years before even the first native settlers. Then we passed a series of bedrock milling stones used by the Maidu maybe 10,000 years ago. After much heavy breathing, I caught up with the group at the top of the peak, to have our lunch overlooking the valley. The descent down the other side took us to one of the earliest built barns still held together by those huge square nails of the past, where we were greeted by a few barn cats patrolling the area for rodents and birds. Our guide then treated us to some chocolate cake, then led us back out of the Buttes to the hustle and bustle of the much less spiritual valley floor.

The Maidu's "Spiritual Mountain"